Krakow - Poland
Created | Updated Jan 28, 2002
Krakow, one of the larger cities in Poland - some (mainly from Krakow) say it is the secret capital - is widely known as The Florence Of The North. Under UNESCO1 protection, the whole city centre is a World Heritage Site. Many visitors travel to Krakow by train - the Polish people recommend this mode of transport because it means you will avoid joining the grid-locked traffic on the chronically-congested streets.
Once you alight from your train, wander, on foot, towards the market place. En route lies ul. Florianska, Krakow's most tourist-orientated street. Don't get turned off by the drastically colourful paintings for sale at the old City Wall, or the McDonald's signs, or the bad kebabs you might be tempted to buy. It's fun to watch Polish capitalism in action for a while. Resuming your city-ramble, you will slowly approach Rinek Glowy, the main market place. This large rectangle is surrounded by Renaissance buildings, almost all of which survived WW2. Near the middle of this area you will find the Clothier's Halls and the tall tower of City Hall. Both are of medieval origin and have been remodelled several times since. They house museums and lots of gift shop arcades. The souvenirs available for purchase are, in the main, of good quality and reasonably priced.
Italian-like Atmosphere
The cafés and restaurants around the Rinek Glowy, many geared towards the tourist market, give the area a lively and almost 'Italian atmosphere'. Thousands of people mill around the market and it can be very entertaining to just watch the crowd's antics or listen to one of the many gypsy bands jamming. In one corner of this fascinating place you will find Our Lady's Cathedral. It houses a wooden main-altar created by German medieval sculptor, Veit Stoss. At six o'clock each evening it's outer wings are folded in by a nun, so you can also view the scenes on the other side. Also, note the hours when the trumpet player on the church's tower gives his signal: He'll stick out his tongue when he's done, and, so legend has it, if you're an unmarried female you might - having seen him do this - find a man soon. The jury's still out on that one.
Wandering away from the market towards Wawel Castle, you will walk through some of Europe's most beautiful renaissance streets. Krakow has many churches - too numerous to list - and all of them are worth checking out. Note also the many cafés off the market place - they are astonishingly cheap and many sport beautifully designed interiors.
Wawel Castle
Wawel Castle was once the residence of Polish kings. It was originally established by King Krak after he (allegedly) killed a dragon. You can still visit the ex-dragon's cave as you make your way out of the castle.
The castle's cathedral is an astonishing mix of various styles - there are guided tours available (if required) through this area and also through the royal tombs. Note the dragon bones outside the portal (probably mammoth or whale). The Royal Chambers and the Royal Private Rooms are still well preserved - but beware, opening hours are quite short in the afternoons. Especially worth looking at is the renaissance court - a masterpiece with a very 'Italian feel'.
Other Attractions
For something completely different - visit the Japanese Museum on the other bank of the Vistula. Modern architecture frames the pieces of Mr Manggha's collection (ranging from Hokusai to Hiroshige). They even have a little tea garden.
In the evening you might try out one of the famed restaurants in Kasimierz, the old Jewish district. It has some fine synagogues and lots of atmosphere. You will recognise the streets if you have seen Schindler's List. Try out the Ariel - they serve excellent Jewish food. Kasimierz has some of the liveliest and most interesting bars in all of Krakow.
All in all, Krakow is well worth the visit: It's... alive.
