Eating Out with the Phoenician Trader: Cafe de Paris, Monte Carlo
Created | Updated Feb 6, 2011
Café de Paris, Monte Carlo
You are in Monaco – the flight over to Nice was spent jammed between a chap who owns a fleet of bulk carriers, and a super-yacht chef. The conversation was interesting but only two recommendations stick in your mind: eat at the Café de Paris and have a cocktail on the top floor of the Miramar.
We actually went by train to Monaco station from Nice and walked to the Café but I make no assumptions how others arrived. The Café has three areas: the front café and the outdoor and indoor restaurant areas. Despite the lovely day we thought we would head indoors because it might be less touristy (given it is right next to the Casino, it is unlikely that anywhere might be less touristy).
The venue is fine Art Deco é possibly original. The walls with their illustrations of the zodiac, the plates with their scalloped edges, the loos downstairs. It is a coherent vision. The seats are nicely spaced and the service is toffee without being offensive (however, if you can't convince yourself that you are a ship owner, the staff may not be convinced either and then you might enjoy your meal better outside). As it happened the staff knew we didn't really belong (although we were dressed in a bit of high end designer kit) and we knew too, yet we were all happy to play the game which is all that was wanted.
Our choice of food was starter and main and a half bottle of white wine. The menu was proper European café catering to pretty much any time of day. I had a raw salmon salad with a lovely tuna based mayonnaise and my companion had an amazing chicken thing. In the end, we threw our judgement to one side and shared a dessert of profiteroles filled with ice-cream that was covered in boiling, amazing chocolate sauce.
But you don't go to places like this for the food.
There was one lady who walked up and down, left and right, in incredible platform sandals wearing a kaftan of amazing taste and beauty – I don't know if she sat down or ate. There was a family of three where Dad had his phone ear plugs in the entire time, the wife looked bored but beautifully groomed, and the young daughter sat dutifully, silently eating her dinner, looking every inch a character from a 1940's play. One couple next to us was a mother (60ish) and son (30sh) and he had a handmade, monogrammed shirt but behaved as if he just did what his mummy told him and pretty much nothing else.
It is possible to make this, one of Europe's most stylish and buzzy cafés appear to be a zoo of the rich and odd, which is not true. There are heaps of people there having a good time eating very expensive but wonderful food in great surrounds. It is a world class experience because everyone who is anyone might be there. They certainly will have been there at some time. That means you get a broad collection of people, including those with analysts, especially from amongst those who can afford them and, on one occasion, me!
Getting there: Private Jet to Nice and have somebody pick you up.
Who should eat there: Anyone under professional psychiatric care.
Dining Style: Very, very stylish.
Price: Lunch £40pp and north.
Quality: Surprisingly good.
Would I go back: I'd love to take my Mum
